The conundrum of cooking shows: tasting the fourth wall

Lately, Rick Stein’s been asking the big questions. Like, 'what makes a curry so curry-y'? And I've enjoyed finding out the answers on his show, India: In Search of the Perfect Curry.

But I’ve always had a slight problem with cookery shows. It’s that dastardly fourth wall between you and the lovely lush eats onscreen. If the show’s any good you can almost taste them, but that ‘almost’ is the real issue — you’re tantalised to the point where you’d do anything to get at the goodies…except leave your sofa.

But this time round you can actually get a piece of the action. To celebrate the TV show, Sam’s Brasserie in Chiswick, and Harrison’s in Balham, are hosting Stein-inspired Indian feasts — menus concocted by co-owners Sam Harrison and Rick himself.

I for one look forward to getting my curried squid on. I want to face down stacks of cumin spiced flatbreads, karahis of kofta curry, and generally stuff my gills with wholesome colourful yums.

The menu is running throughout July. Perhaps longer if it meets with the approval it deserves.

By James McKnight