Sunday 14 July 2013

What happens to a pop-up once it’s…‘popped’?


That’s what BBQWhiskeyBeer have got me pondering, as they squat at the Wargrave Arms. It’s a Marylebone pub with an award-winning array of low-‘n’-slow cooked Americana. They’ve run the pop-up gauntlet and come out on top. With a heavyweight Ribstock title to prove it.

Here’s what they do.

BBQ — from classic burgers on brioche buns, to the same again topped with the kind of pulled pork that deserves its 24 hour cooking time as it much as it deserves the praise it gets. Southern fried chicken livers, or three-day smoked beef ribs, finished over charcoal: that thing of ludicrous beauty known only as ‘The Jacob’.

As for drinks, the name simply won’t let you sell them short. They take up two thirds of it after all. BBQWhiskeyBeer boast one of the biggest selections of single malts in London. If a Scottish distillery is producing still, you can guarantee they’ll have a bottle. They’ve even got some from dearly departed distilleries to round out the collection.

Add to that a ragtag crew of quality London cask ales, craft bottles, and special under-the-counter somethings for the discerning customer, and you have a bar to be reckoned with.

I think they deserve a permanent home at the Wargrave Arms. BBQWhiskeyBeer certainly hasn’t lost its fizz, post-pop. 

By James McKnight

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